Marine Hardware for the Standing and Running Rigging on Your Sailboat

Source: cruisingworld.com

Would you go back to using rope for rigging? It’s how it was originally done before stainless steel wire rope took over. Trends change. There is a push toward using low stretch and ultra strong synthetic ropes like Dyneema and Spectra for sailboat rigging.

But don’t ditch your metal hardware just yet. Even if new ropes with chafe resistant covers (or sacrificial lines) put metal cables into sailing history, all those marine grade hardware pieces placed on the deck are here to stay.

The Mast

Source: medium.com

There are many types of sailboats, and the most prevalent monohull designs are sloop, cutter, ketch or schooner. Of course, every decade or so, a new style of watercraft becomes popular and new materials are introduced at slightly slower pace as well. On top of that, seafarers develop their own sail plan, and depending on it, exact configurations may vary.

Ship chandlery and the mast, however are a constant. If you want to use sail power to move ahead, then the mast has to stay upright and functional. High winds and g-forces can dismast your vessel. While a boat without a mast is still seaworthy, not having one means that your options are very limited. And dismasted sailboat in off-shore waters is practically very close to being disabled and drifting.

The standing rigging is there to ensure your mast stays upright. It’s fixed in position and holds tension between the deck and the mast. Keeping the rigging lines on a modern sailboat in place is unimaginable without high grade boat chandlery. These pieces of stainless steel boat hardware are indispensable.

Running rigging is used for management of the sails. It controls the shape, orientation and position of a sail. This part of the rigging was always done with cordage, though, nowadays the lines are mostly synthetic and braided by more sophisticated machines.

Deck Hardware

Source: tidallife.com

Almost all of the lines used in standing rigging are connected to the deck. And to have the shrouds and stays (forestays, sidestays, backstays) fixed to the deck you need boat hardware able to withstand the elements. However even the most tough materials will not do the job unless you install them properly.

Thru bolting is the best way to install deck hardware. The alternative, or screwing just about anything to the deck, is not recommended. When you come across strong winds you will not only lose the item you thought you secured, but there will also be a dent to remind you of the blunder. To do it properly, you need to drill a hole that goes all the way through the mounting surface. The nuts and bolts have to be secured with a washer and a nut below deck.

Cleats

Source: practical-sailor.com

Deck contraptions go beyond rigging. Thru bolting is needed to secure cleats, ring plates, eye bolts and eye plates. These kinds of boat hardware can be used to fasten a wide array of marine gear. Cleats help secure the boat itself to a marine dock or a mooring ball. By far the most distinctive feature of these pieces is the material they are made from. Stainless steel (grade 304 or 316) is able to handle the high humidity and harsh marine environment with grace up to 10 years. Pieces that are not as exposed and don’t suffer much stress, like galvanized thimbles for deadeyes can perform well and have long service life.

Architectural Hardware

latches-and-hatches-for-marine-windows-and-openings

Source: powerandmotoryacht.com

Water will splurge to the deck in high seas on a regular basis. But the element of water on a sailboat does not come exclusively from below. Your boat will face weather and torrental rains and when this happens you will come to appreciate the importance of commanding a tight ship.

Multitude of latches and hatches for marine windows and openings keep your cabin watertight. You can employ all the fancy sealants in the world, but if the quality of your gas struts is not top notch you will experience leaks. This is an issue that should be resolved as soon as possible. It doesn’t threaten the seaworthiness of your vessel, not directly. However ingress of water is detrimental for every structure, as you may know from your permanent residence. Failing to address the leaks will potentially ruin the interior too.

Railings

Source: pixabay.com

The steel cables used as railings are a user friendly rendition of the standing rigging lines. Some consider them as part of the rigging, while other don’t value them as such. They provide a line connecting the aft and the bow on both starboard and port side of the vessel. Regardless of their formal status, installing railings is very important, especially if you have a kid or a pet on board. Having a reliable cable to hold on to is obviously essential for every crew member or guest in high seas. These cables are more sophisticated simply because they are constantly in your field of view and you will probably touch them more often.

Learn Your Knots and Splices

Source: sailmagazine.com

There you go. It’s the a short overview of the ins and outs in rigging. This sort of stuff is done by a well skilled professional so when you hire your rigger he will probably have advice that pertains to your vessel. Don’t go around this step and do the rigging on your own if you don’t have appropriate experience. These days the market is flooded with second hand ships and sometimes you can’t have a clear picture on the state of the rigging until a professional has a thorough look at it.

In the meantime you can certainly invest in learning a new knot or a splice. It can serve you to devise a make shift solution that will take you to shore if your rigging fail you mid passage. And ask experienced sailors – these kind of issues always arise when you are far from shore. It’s not always fair winds and following seas.